Thinking back, I have a vague idea of how I got myself into this adventure. It was either Yen Erl or Poh Wai who told me about this Mulu trip and I immediately said yes without thinking much. I did not even know that we are going there to climb the pinnacles at that time.As the trip was drawing near, Tony Quay, our organiser sent out emails on the itinerary, what to bring, tips and some information about the trip. I began to google about Mulu Pinnacles and found that it will not be as easy as I thought it will be. And so I went with an uneasy feeling as I have not trained much and I know I am very weak at going up and downhill (after Gunung Dato's experience).
14th June
Journey started with the group gathering at LCCT at 6am in the morning. Boarded a 2.5 hours flight to Miri at 725am. When we reached Miri, we waited a couple of hours for the next MASWings flight to Mulu. And thus, we reached Mulu at about 1pm. Mulu airport is small, simple and surrounded by empty lands and greenery...We were rushed to Mulu HQ, our humble abode for the first and fourth night. After settling in (which included tucking in our own bedsheets in the dormitory-like room), we were prepared to explore Lang and Deer caves followed by a bat exodus.
The walk to the caves entrance is 3.5km plankwalk from the HQ. We saw different kinds of insects along the way and the Penan Burial cave.Lang's cave is the smallest of the show caves but its rock formations are well worth seeing. Deer Cave, in contrast is one of the largest cave in the world. Walking along pathways, it eventually leads to the "Garden of Eden" where a hole in the cave roof lets in light which allows the rich green vegetation to grow. Another feature is the famous face of Abraham Lincoln.
We went to the bat observatory and waited for the bat exodus at about 6pm. It was an amazing sight. Millions of bats came out in groups, flying in a zigzag manner to avoid predators. This formed snakes-like figures for us watching from below. We walked back to the HQ and call it an early night after dinner.
15th June
Morning started with breakfast before departing to Camp 5 (at the foot of Gunung Api) at about 8am. We stopped after short long-boat ride (which fits only 6-8 people in a boat) at a Penan settlement.
Saw some long houses. Penan villagers were selling handicrafts and I am humbled by their simple way of living. After hanging out for a while, we continued our boat ride along Melinau River. At some points, the boatmen had to jump out and pushed our boat as the water level was too low and the current was strong.
After a while, we reached Wind and Clearwater Caves. A plankwalk leads from the riverbank to the entrance of Wind Cave, so named because of the cool breezes which can be felt at some parts of the cave. Wind Cave has many impressive stalactites, stalagmites, flowrocks, helitites and rock corals, some of which are illuminated in the 'King's Room.' Clearwater Cave is the longest cave in Asia. It has a subterranean river running through it and the water is so cooling.
After a tour of the cave we climbed down some steps to a picnic area. At the base of the steps there is a crystal clear pool that is filled by water that flows out of the cave. This pool reminded me of the Crystal pond in Krabi. This was where we had lunch.
Journey continued. We arrived at a riverbank and this was where our 8km trek to Camp 5 began. It was not a hard trek. Flat trails along the way with 2 canopy bridges. What made it hard was the heavy rain and the leeches!! I hate leeches. Basically was holding a packet of salt all along the way. We finally reached Camp 5 with our shoes soaking wet (thank God for raincoats). Camp 5 has very basic facilities. Common bathrooms and a thin mattress to sleep on. We slept in dorm-like style next to each other.
Most memorable at Camp 5 was our chef. He can cook up a storm (or maybe we were too hungry). The curry chicken, mee and even 'pucuk paku' tasted so good. It was raining through the night and I was freezing cold. I put on 2 layers of clothing and jacket.
16th June
By 7am, we gathered for a short briefing (in our soggy shoes). The hike of 2.4km per way (but rises some 1,200 metres) began at 730am. The first hundred meter was flat ground but we were soon greeted with the real thing. 200m onwards, it was ascend all the way.
60-80 degrees of climbing, I was scrambling all over the place looking for footholds and anything to grab to pull myself up. Think of Bukit Tabur and multiply it by a few times. Some parts were near impossible but we had to find ways to go through it. Sweat was dripping like river as it was very hot and humid. We managed to reach the checkpoint just before 11am (2000m). Another 400m to go. Sounds easy right? WRONG!! The last section of the trail is near vertical, with rope sections, small planks to walk across deep holes and 15 aluminium ladders.
After what seemed like eternity, we finally reached the 2400m marker. The view was beautiful but cannot be compared to Mount Kinabalu. We had a quick lunch, accompanied by some squirrels seeking for leftovers.
Then the real challenge started. We were the last batch to descend. And we got really unlucky when it rained as we were making our way down. Slippery, with one wrong step, that's it for us. When I think back, it was really scary. We had to take one step at a time. The rain costed us much time and energy. I felt my legs were giving up on me and the only thing I wanted so badly was to go home. But thanks to Bee Hong, I kept on going. But luck really was not on our side. JUst as we passed the 300m mark, it began to grow dark. It was hard to see by then but we can still go on without using torchlights.
As we were approaching the 200m, it started to rain again and this time, darkness fell upon us. Holding on to torchlights and soaking wet, we tried to make our way back. The park ranger came looking for us but as there were still people behind us, he told us to make our way back slowly as we were near and he will look for the rest. As hard as we tried, we couldn't see the marker anymore. At the point just passed the 200m, we sat there, on the slope, not daring to move further as we knew we will be lost. Saw a distant light and we called for help. At that moment, I could not remember what I was feeling. I was thinking that we were so near yet so far. I panicked and Bee Hong was there to calm me.
What a relief when we heard another park ranger's voice. He heard our shouts and came looking for us. I was really thankful at that moment. And so, he lead us out to safety. The lights from Camp 5 was such a welcoming sight. Many of us had leeches bites, scratches, bruises and insect bites all over. I managed to sleep without thinking much or having any nightmares.
17th June
With muscle soreness and wobbly legs, we had to make our 8km way back to the riverbank (in soggy shoes again...ewwweee). No more rain along the way, thankfully. After a sunny and hot boat ride, we reach Mulu HQ safely and wanted nothing more than to take a good nap.
The evening ended with another 3.5km (per way) walk to witness the bat exodus again. This time it was more beautiful and mesmerizing. We saw fireflies on the way back to the HQ.
18th June
Our final day in Sarawal. We took the 1010am flight back to Miri. We explored Miri town by bus and foot. My legs felt like they are ready to give up on me anytime. Most memorable here was the food. Lunch was served with HUGE, FRESH prawns (lots of it), deer meat, steamed fish and vegetable. It only costed about RM 30 each. Before going back to the airport for our flight home, we had the famous Sarawak kolo mee. Delicious! I had the 'Teh Si Special' which is nice. We landed in LCCT at about 11pm. With memories and an experience I will never forget, I slept soundly in the comfort of my own bed, thankful to have this luxury again.
PS: Thanks to Tony Quay for organizing and to everyone who made this trip a memorable one. And Poh Wai, I will definitely go Mount Kinabalu next year...:P
(some pictures are courtesy of Poh Wai and Bee Hong)
1 comment:
wow, what an adventure! btw the chef is yr team mate i assume (ie not hired rite?)
and u really saw the must see things there. including the fireflies wow :)
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